Thursday, July 11, 2013

Why You Shouldn't Go Canoeing in the Jungle during a Monsoon


Canoeing in a monsoon sucks. Photo by Jon.
In case I wasn't sure, a day and a half in the Nepalese jungle at Chitwan National Park reminded me I'm a city girl at heart.  Before our excursion began, our very informative guide gave us a safety briefing on what to expect. Cover your skin to protect against leeches and mosquitos. If a rhinoceros charges at you, run in a zigzag pattern. If an angry elephant starts to stampede, climb a tree. If a tiger chases you, well, there’s not much you can do; just run really fast! I longed for the urban jungle of New York City where I knew how to deal with the “wildlife.”


Travel is one of those rare times when you can be utterly miserable and filled with awe. Our group huddled into these long, narrow and very unstable canoes. As I sat on the tiny bench, to my horror, I saw the interior was covered in giant, alien-like insects and spiders. Rusty red ants with bulbous heads. Pea-sized white spiders. Speckled brown spiders that could fit in your palm. And, my favorite of all, was the spider which, after I flicked it into the river, ran on top of the water and jumped right back in the boat. 

If the mutant-sized insects weren’t enough, our canoe ride soon got more uncomfortable as the skies opened. We were, literally, in a monsoon. My blue, tent-like rain poncho was not enough to protect against such a deluge. Within minutes, my pants were completely soaked. My rucksack, nestled in front of my legs, was getting drowned. As I shivered, blinking out the biting rain that was slanted perfectly to hit my eyes, I tried to forget my misery by taking in the lush surroundings. There were no discerning features, just a mass of dense, green jungle and the swirling blue-gray river.  The only sounds were from solitary seabirds diving into the rapids for their lunch and the steady plodding oar, moving us slowly forward. As my gluteal muscles ached from the hard, wooden chair, I reminded myself that I was on a unique, once-in-a-lifetime journey. Being on a canoe ride along the Rapti River in the middle of the Nepali jungle was pretty amazing.


I wanted nothing more than to get off of that boat, until I saw our landing point. There was no pier. I saw the vague outlines of a muddy “path” leading up a bluff. “Oh no no no. Let me stay on the boat!” I said, probably not to myself. Our intrepid guides positioned themselves strategically on the hill, and proceeded to fling us, one at a time, from one guide to the next until we reached the very top.  And finally, the wonder overcame the despair.  As I stood among elephant grass that was taller than my 1.6 meter frame surrounded by the rhythmic chirping of some unseen bird (or frog?), I was in a place unlike anywhere I’d ever seen before. And the adventure was only beginning.