Wieliczka Salt Mines, Poland

I am posting my travelogues a bit out of order. I haven't quite finished my Balkans one, but then never got around to posting my Poland trip either. So here is my blog on the Wieliczka Salt Mines, just outside of Krakow. We were there earlier this year for the May holiday.

Krakow is a picturesque little town, reminiscent of other eastern European cities such as Prague and Ljubljana. Wieliczka and its world-famous, UNESCO-acknowledged Salt Mines. with its obligatory castle, cathedral(s) and pronunciation-defying street names. There’s the winding river, narrow cobblestone streets and the smell of kielbasa in the air. However, there is one unique attraction that you’d be hard-pressed to find in any of these other cities. Journey just about ten kilometers outside the city and you’ll come to the city of Wieliczka.

And Wieliczka certainly realizes its uniqueness. The admission price was shockingly high – we paid 100 zloty for round-trip transportation and a guided tour (required) inside. Our tour guide had a wonderfully stereotypical Slavic accent. He sounded a bit like Dracula, and his accent echoed and boomed atmospherically in the dark mines. He led us down a seemingly endless staircase that plummeted down for about 150 meters. Thankfully, the staircase is one-way and an elevator will return us to the surface!

Wieliczka had been a functioning mine for 900 years but stopped production in 2007. Many of the “exhibits” (i.e., dummy dioramas for the most part) in this place are a testament to the hardships endured by the mine’s employees. It was interesting but also frustrating considering the $50 we had paid for entrance. We were hoping for something a bit more than a glorified model of mine work. Luckily we were soon treated to some of the spectacular salt sculptures –

a ring bearer

and what could have been an ode to the seven dwarves, a scene of little gnomes working the mines. All that was missing was the tune to “Hi-Ho” playing in the background. My picture came out quite dark so here is a better one I stole from Wikipedia.

Finally, we arrived at the crown jewel of this historical site, and indeed, the reason for its UNESCO certification (and also to charge an additional 10 zloty for the right to take pictures) – the salt chapel.

This chapel is extraordinary for many reasons: its unusual underground location and the sheer size and beauty of its sculptures and bas reliefs. However, the most astounding thing is that this artistic marvel was carved by simple, ordinary miners. It is truly magnificent. Even the exquisite chandeliers

are made from salt. The other sculptures are all of a religious nature, of course.

The Last Supper,

the holy family in Bethlehem

and a life-size sculpture of one of Poland’s greatest hero, Pope John Paul II,

are all represented. While the chapel is definitely the highlight of the tour, there were more pleasant surprises to follow.

There were pools of water that were reminiscent of Tolkien and the Mines of Moria

and dizzying staircases that seemed suspended in the air.

There was the sad story of Austrian tourists who drowned in a boat ride that used to be offered in the lower depths of the mines. Their bodies were never recovered, and the boat rides have never resumed.

The elevator ride back to the surface was also quite unforgettable. We waited in line since the capacity is only about ten people and it takes a full 30 seconds to get back to the top. It was like an amusement park ride where you were never quite sure of making it out alive.

All in all, the Mines were a memorable, fascinating and sometimes eerie tourist attraction. It also remains the highest-priced attraction I have ever visited, surpassing even the ridiculously expensive (but equally remarkable) Tower of London’s 15£ admission. Was it worth it? Until I find some other site comparable to the impressiveness and uniqueness, I have no regrets – apart from the emptiness of my wallet.